On Barefoot Shoes
They say that clothes make the man, but sometimes I wonder whether it is the shoes. We speak of walking a mile in someone’s shoes to understand them and their life, and it is in shoes that we can usually see the most unique wear patterns, because they tend to be used so much more frequently and for longer than other clothing items. I used to love watching Inside The Actors Studio when I was younger, and a surprising number of actors would say they started with the shoes. Once you know the shoes your character wears, then you know how they walk, how they carry themselves, and come to understand their physicality - to inhabit the person, you wear their shoes.
Shoes are how I first got interested in fashion and actually form my earliest clothing memory (but that is a story for another time). It was as a teenager that I first saw a pair of Y-3 sneakers with the name “Yohji Yamamoto” emblazoned on the side, and in researching that name I found out what fashion could really be. I have always had a weakness for shoes, because while my weight may slide around thanks to my health issues, my foot size remains stable. I do not have to worry about shoes no longer fitting just because I lose weight, and that gives me a sense of security that is difficult to overstate. No matter how I am feeling physically, I can pull on whichever pair of shoes that I feel like wearing and know that they will feel just right. That being said, because I have a weakness for shoes, I do try to keep as minimal a collection as possible!
There is most certainly a psychological component to shoes for me that stretches beyond stability in sizing. I deal with anxiety, so in the past I actively sought out shoes that would help me feel, for want of a better phrase, more “grounded”. When you are underweight and feeling physically unwell, you can already feel unsteady on your feet, but once you throw anxiety into the mix the effect is compounded. As such I have a history of wearing primarily flat soled or heavy shoes. A flat sole such as a Jordan 1 or Converse 70 meant that I would feel more steady on my feet, and the fact that both have a relatively low drop (the difference in height between heel and toe) will become important later on. Compared to those lightweight sneakers, heavier boots such as Timberlands and Dr Martens felt like they anchored me to the ground and helped me feel more “present” I suppose.
Because of my autoimmune condition, I do not have the best knees in the world - my joints tend to get inflamed and painful, particularly when I am flaring. In the past I have sought out all manner of cushioned and comfortable shoes to help with the pain, however with technology such as Boost or React cushioning, I find that the lack of support and sponginess of the soles actually makes the issue worse on longer wears (although they are perfectly comfortable for quick runs to the supermarket).
In my quest for comfort I tried on a pair of Birkenstock clogs for the first time almost a decade ago, and that was like a revelation. Birkenstocks are zero drop - the height between heel and toe is zero, meaning your feet are perfectly flat against the ground, and your legs and spine are in their natural neutral alignment. I found they took around two weeks to get used to, because even though I had worn low drop shoes before, wearing zero drop for an extended period was new for my body. While I still own a pair that I wear in the garden, what always bothered me about them was the lack of sole flexibility. They were broad, flat and stable, but my feet were in the molded footbed, fully supported, and yet could not really flex and move.
When the pandemic started and we were in the midst of the first lockdown, I went looking for a new pair of shoes online. What I found strange was that while I had worked with a physio to help strengthen the muscles around my knees, I really did not have much foot flexibility and it felt like all these massively supportive shoes were not really giving me the chance to use and strengthen my muscles and joints. So when I came across barefoot shoes, my interest was piqued, because here were shoes that would give me that zero drop I enjoyed, but were fully flexible and lightweight, allowing me to actually strengthen my knees and feet for myself. Rather than relying on shoes to help me feel grounded, perhaps I could use these shoes to help train my body to feel grounded in and of itself.
What is a barefoot shoe?
If you had asked me a few years ago what a barefoot shoe was, I would have thought of a pair of Vibram Fivefingers, and even though they might now have a Balenciaga co-sign, they are not my cup of tea. Barefoot shoes have several properties:
Wide toe box: This is the most important distinction from other “minimal” footwear. Barefoot shoes have a wide toe box that caters to the natural alignment of the foot and allows the toes to splay fully when walking. The idea is that the shoes should not squish the toes together or encumber the foot’s natural movement (an extreme example can be seen with bunions). This is also important in terms of stability, because proper foot alignment makes a massive difference in stabilizing the body.
Zero drop: The shoes should have no difference in height between heel and toe. The vast majority of shoes have a heel of some kind, and that heel means that the body has to compensate to maintain posture and stability. In extreme cases this shortens the calf muscle and can cause Achilles tendon issues.
Zero arch support: Barefoot shoes have an entirely flat insole, meaning zero arch support. The idea is to allow the foot to learn how to support itself again. If you require medical orthotics then you will usually have the space to add them, but in that case, stick to whatever medical advice you have been given.
Flexible sole: The shoes should allow for the full range of movement for the foot, and you will notice that barefoot shoes flex in all directions. This is particularly important in helping with increasing the flexibility and strength of the ankles and feet, and actually helps improve stability longer term.
Thin sole: This the obvious “barefoot” part, in that the soles are as thin and minimal as possible to allow for full ground feel. You can actually feel what you are walking on, and the lack of cushioning, especially at the heel, promotes a more natural gait - running in barefoot shoes in particular means you learn to stop heel striking quite quickly!
What have I noticed after two years?
So I have been wearing barefoot shoes for two years now. They are my primary footwear, although I do still sometimes wear ordinary shoes (in particular in rain and snow).
Along with wearing barefoot shoes when outside, I have also been working on my overall strength and flexibility. I have found using a ball to roll out my feet particularly helpful, and wearing toe spacers in the evenings helps with the alignment of the toes. Barefoot shoes require a transition period and you do have to take it slowly, otherwise you will injure yourself, but I actually found it quite a quick adjustment period. I guess because I am already used to walking around the house barefoot and have some experience of zero drop shoes already it was fine. If you intend to run in them, make sure you take it slowly and do not put on a pair for the first time and try to go for a 10k. However they are actually really good straight off the bat for anyone who lifts - I would recommend the Primus Lites by Vivobarefoot for anyone looking for shoes to wear in the gym, and particularly for weightlifting.
Anyhow, some anecdotal observations:
My knees, ankles and feet are stronger and I feel more “grounded” and stable. I still have to deal with inflamed joints, but I am perfectly happy to wear barefoot shoes when my knees are bad..
My ankles and feet are far more flexible than they used to be. This helps in feeling more stable when walking, especially with such flexible soles.
My foot arch is stronger than it used to be. In the past I always sought out shoes with good arch support, but the lack of arch support in barefoot shoes has actually been a game changer for me.
I really enjoy being able to feel the ground and walking over different textures. My favourite thing to walk on apart from grass and natural ground is actually tactile paving - specifically the blister paving they use in London at pedestrian crosswalks to help the partially sighted. It feels like a foot massage and I really enjoy walking over them. That probably sounds a little insane, but trust me, it feels nice.
Feelgrounds Original Knit (2020 model)
The first pair of barefoot shoes I bought were the Original Knit from Feelgrounds. I opted for these because they looked the most like “ordinary” shoes to me, and I loved the fact that they were made from recycled materials. Feelgrounds shoes are also fully vegan if that is important to you. These have a knit upper, knit laces and a soft and flexible 5mm sole. There is a microfiber heel lining that is soft and pliable, and you can buy a cork insole if you wish, but I wear them without any insoles. The model has actually been updated since I bought it to have a slightly wider toebox and the sidewall of the sole reaches up higher.
To me these feel like slippers you can wear outside and require zero break in time. The sole is incredibly comfortable, but you do have to be careful with any high friction wear because of how soft they are. The knit upper means that I tie the laces once, and then slip them off and put them on without touching the laces again. I was worried about their longevity, but to be honest I will probably wear through the sole before I wear through the upper. They are advertised as water repellent, but in practice - if it rains, your feet will get wet. I found that they needed about 48 hours to dry fully at room temperature if you wet them all the way through (say when washing or if caught out in a rainstorm!). I was concerned that they might be too lightweight for colder weather, but with my usual Winter socks, I find them perfectly fine for colder (dry) weather.
In terms of sizing, I followed the measurement guide on their website and ended up going with my usual size of EU 44. I have enough space at the toes and overall the shoes feel comfortable. What I will say is that I wish they were narrower around the heel, just for a more secure fit, but given the style of shoe they are, I do not particularly mind.
Vivobarefoot Ra III
The second pair of barefoot shoes I bought, earlier this Summer, are these Ra III from Vivobarefoot (a brand some of you may already be familiar with, because you may have seen a pair of their training shoes around the gym). These are made from chrome and metal-free leather, with organic cotton laces, rubber sole and a removable insole made from sugar cane EVA and a natural cork topper. The sole is 4mm thick and the removable insole is an additional 3mm. Because of the fact that these are made of leather, they do require a break in period, but the leather is relatively soft and pliable fresh out of the box, so it is minimal.
I found the soles are harder than the Feelgrounds, so while you still get a good amount of ground feel, it is noticeably less - of course it is still far beyond anything you will get in a conventional shoe. The hexagonal dotted sole has minimal tread, but they do feel more grippy than the Feelgrounds. I like the fact that these have a narrow heel shape and more rounded design, because it feels like they conform better to the foot, although you will have to lace and unlace them each time. The website suggests they fit smaller, but I measured my foot and went again with an EU 44 and found they fit perfectly well with full freedom of movement without my toes touching the edge of the shoe.
As with all leather shoes breathability can be an issue, so you want to avoid these on particularly hot days. But I have worn them several times this Summer with socks and found them comfortable.
A toebox comparison for those interested between the Feelgrounds Original Knit (left) and the “ordinary” toebox of the Novesta Marathon Trail (right).
Please note: This post is not sponsored and all shoes were bought with my own money. All links are for convenience only and are not affiliated in any way.
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