Breaking Ranks

Whilst I maintain a great appreciation for the work of Kris Van Assche, his collections have often left me feeling wanting for just that little bit more. In the eyes of fashion media he is inevitably thinly drawn out for analysis under the rather immense and fashionable shadow of Hedi Slimane. And indeed this type of comparison, whilst not being truly respectful of Van Assche as a designer in his own right, does have the benefit of boosting that added impetus within him to amaze us.

For the latest Fall '09 collection under his own label, Van Assche exceeded my expectations in that respect, yet still left me feeling as if the full extent of its meaning was somewhat lost in its realisation. That being said however, I was definitely fascinated by the silhouettes he provided throughout. Known for his trademark wider cut trousers, it was nice to see the slimmer, stacked offerings alongside his usual cut.

I immediately recognised Van Assche's cultural influences from the northern areas of Pakistan and Afghanistan, with his unique take on the traditional shalwar kameez top. There was also his interesting use of the black shawls, which in this case, rather than providing a body wrap were simply draped over the models for a flowing silhouette.

As such, when I came across the Fall '09 Ad Campaign, I was both pleasantly surprised yet puzzled with the results. The monochrome shoot works well in evoking the sense of the collection, and the styling is impeccable. However, I must admit I am not entirely comfortable with plain wooden decking of the backdrop. I find that given the inspirations and influences of the collection, the setting could have been more better realised. That being said, I still think the campaign works successfully in showcasing the feel of the season's collection.


Currently playing: Lay It Down - Al Green

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